Hat and hat frame and method of making same



June 5, 1951 .1. TURSHIN HAT AND HAT FRAME AND METHOD OF MAKING SAMEFiled Dec. 16, 1949 Patented June 5, 1951 HAT AND HAT FRAME AND METHODOF MAKING SAME Joseph Turshin, Bronx, N. Y.

Application December 16, 1949, Serial N 0. 133,447

8 Claims.

This invention relates to .a method for making feminine hat frames andhats and to such frames or hats. It is in particular applicable toframes consisting of more than one part, for instance a brim and acrown, and to hats consisting of more than one part, for instance a brimand a crown or several superposed layers. The separate parts may be madeof the'same or of different mate rials, as desired.

In the conventional method of making frames for feminine hats consistingof several parts, the several parts are separately blocked out ofbuckram, rice net, miscellaneous cotton goods or other suitablematerial, and subsequently the separate pieces are carefully piecedtogether by stitching. This sewing together of the separate pieces is atedious and time consuming process. Moreover, great care must be takento correctly align the separate parts as designed, since otherwise thefinished product will not assume the intended shape.

According to the present invention, the step of sewing together theseparate pieces is eliminated, overlaying portions of the differentpieces being held together by the blocking operation. This not onlyconsiderably simplifies the method of production, but also assures thecorrect rela tive positioning of the various pieces constituting the hatframe or hat.

It is a primary object of the present invention to provide a method ofmaking either hats or hat frames, wherein the crown is simultaneouslyformed and secured to the brim in a single dieforming operation.

A further object is to provide a method wherein the crown is formed of adifferent material from that of the brim, the crown preferably being ofa relatively flexible material, the frame being formed of a relativelystiff inflexible material, and wherein the brim and crown are bondedtogether to form a unitary hat or hat frame by means of a relativelysimple, highly economical and extremely effective die-forming operation.

Another object of the invention is to provide a method of forming hatsand hat frames by one or more die-forming operations and to provide sucha method wherein the crown is formed of a different and more flexiblematerial than the material of the brim;

Still another object is to provide a hat or hat frame and a method ofmaking same wherein the crown is formed of a material so sheer andflexible as not to be able to retain its crown shape if blockedseparately. In one form of the present invention the brim is providedwith a stiff upstanding brace flange and the sheer flexible crownmaterial is adhesively secured to the brace flange by heat and pressuresimultaneously with the crown blocking operation, the brace flangeserving to maintain the crown shape of the crown materialnotwithstanding the sheer flexible nature of the latter. Therefore, thepresent method enables the use of extremely sheer flexible crownmaterials for the first time in the history of the ladies hat industry,since by the methods of the prior art it was necessary to block and formthe crown independently of the brim and hence the crown material had tobe sufficiently stiff to retain its crown shape independently of anyexternal supporting or bracing structure.

A further object is to provide a method wherein the starch-likestiffening substance, with which crown and brim sheet materials havebeen impregnated by the textile manufacturer before they are deliveredto the hat frame manufacturer,

is also utilized as an adhesive securing the crown to the brim, therebyeliminating the costly sewing operation heretofore necessary for thispurpose.

Further objects and advantages of the present invention will becomeapparent in conjunction with the following specification and drawing, inwhich- Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a hat frame according to thepresent invention;

Fig. 2 is a cross-section on the line 2-2 of Fig. 1 through part of ahat frame according to this invention;

Fig. 3 is a cross-section through a die for hat frames, adjusted forbrims;

Fig. 4 is a cross-section through a die: for hat frames, adjusted forcrowns;

Fig. 5 is a cross-section through a hat frame according to thisinvention.

Referring to Fig. 1, It) indicates the brim and If the crown of a hatframe. I2 is a conventional binding stitched onto the edge of the brim.

Fig. 2 illustrates the overlapping of a portion of the crown material Hof the hat frame and the brim It. In the embodiment shown, overlappingoccurs over the entire width of the brim and somewhat inwardly of thecrown. However, it may be desirable to have the two pieces overlap onlya shorter portion. A wire l4, stiffening the outer edge of the brim, isgenerally attached by means of a binding l2 stitched to the brim at l3.

Fig. 3 shows a conventional die for hat forms, when adapted for theblocking of brims. The die consists of a lower portion ll, an insert l8and a top portion l9. The lower portion i1 is permanently supported bylegs 20, while the top portion, in operation, is engaged by a press, not

3 shown, through lugs 21. A burner 22 maintains the die at operatingtemperature. The brim I!) between the lower portion i1 and the upperportion I9 of the die is also indicated. A central area It? in thebrim-forming piece is later removed, as is any superfluousmaterial23protruding beyonclthe edge of the die, if necessary.

Fig. 4 illustrates the same die now adapted for finally forming the'hatjar'ticle and used,accord-. ing to the present method. The lowerportionln supported by legs 20 is identical with that shown in Fig. 3.which is shaped to block the. crown, followedby a top concave female diemember23 having up standing posts 25 which will receive pressure via;

the platten of a pressi The brim part It is shown in position and so isthe crown H, over lapping the brim. The crown may be either of a framematerialor of several layers of material, such as a lining, a framematerial, and one .or more outer fabric layers, for instancestraw'cloth, velvet or satin.

Fig. 5 shows a finishedframe, illustrating the relative positions of thebrim part it"and the crown part II. If 'severallayers of the same ordifferent materials have been used in either'blo'ck-- ing operation, thearticle or part thereof will comprise a composite of such material ormaterials. V

In the method according to the present invention, and referring'first toFig. 3, the insert I8 is initially placed inassemble'd relation on thelower portion 17 of the male or convex die-forming member and a sheet ofmaterial which is to form the brim is then placed over'the lower portionI? and insert i 8. The brim material is pref erabl'y relatively stiffand inflexible 'as' compared with the relatively flexible material whichis to besubsequently employed in forming the crown. However, it is tobe. understood that the relative degrees of flexibility of the brim andcrown materials may be varied as desired.

The die member [9 is then moved downwardly so as to form thebrimmaterial into the'configuration shown in Fig. 3. The diemember I9 isthen moved upwardly and the formed brim material is removed from thedie. The central area 56 of the formed. brim material is then cutout anddiscarded, thereby leaving an annular brim.

The insert I8 is then removed an'dthe convex insert 2 5 substitutedtherefor, as shown in Fig. 4. The annular brim isthen'plac'ed around thelower or male convex die member. A sheet of crown material, preferablyof greaterflexibility than thematerial of the brim but not necessarilyso, is then placed over the lower or male convexdie member formed by dieportions l1 and 2 2, and also in superimposed or overlapping relationwith respect to the annular brim. The upper or concave female die member23 is then moved down-- wardly into contact with the crown materialwhile However, there is now an .insert 243.

simultaneously stretching and tensioning the latter in radially outwarddirections. I

Either the brim material or the crown material may be provided with asuitable adhesive and either of these materials maybe moistened ordampened before being assembled on the male die member, if desired.

It will thus be seen that the die members 23 and I1, 24 apply heat andmolding pressure to the brim and the crown material, therebysimultaneously die-forming the crown material into a crown and securingthe crown to the brim. The female die member 23 may then be movedupwardly and the completed unitary hat or hat 4 frame may then beremoved from the lower member I1, 24.

die

It is further proposed to put several layers of material, such aslining, a frame material and an outer fabric or, several outer; fabrics;all overlapping over all'or part of theirsurfaces, simultaneously intothe press. These layers will, during the blocking operation, be fusedtogether by the presence of some adhesive in either or several of thematerials, moistened before blocking.

It'is to be understood that the term hat as employeduin thespecification and claims is intended to be a generic term meaning anytype of head coveringhaving a crown and brim and its use in thisapplication includes both a finished hat or the uncovered hat frame.

Although the integralsheet of material designated i'nthe specificationas crown I l1is provided'in the disclosed embodiment of the inventionwith a fiange'elike portion lying in superimposed relation with respecttojthe brim l0, this flange-like portion having the same shape as thebrim It therebeneath, the entire sheet H is referred to as a crownnotwithstanding the fact that it is only the upper portion of'the sheetII which is of crown shape, whereas the lower flange-like portion mayberegarde'd' as being a brim portion. The reasons'for this terminology,that is designating both the crown'and brimpoi tion of the sheet II bythe term: crown are several. First, such terininology is the" acceptedone universally employed in 'thejhat frame industry. Second, the brim orlower flange-like portionof the sheet H which'lies in superimposedrelation over the 'brim' l0 usuallyfdoes not function asv a briin. That;is', the" brim 19 1s usually, although not always/of mueh stiffermaterial than the sheet Ilandjhence mostof the reinforcing andshape-retaining; functions of a brim are supplied-by the brim ll) ratherthan by the lower flange like 'portionofjthe sheet H. Third, it is to beunderstood'that'the' flange like or brim portion, of the sheet I I'may'be'elimin'ated if desired without departing, from'the scope of theinvention, such brim portion'jbeingpresent in the disclosedembodimehtbauseit is are-- sult .of the. referred and-imostadvantage'ous mannrof 'p' cticing' the invention rather than becauseit is an. essential aridnecs'saryelement thereof. In other words,thesheet materials I may .be circularly cut approximately along thelower edge offits crown portion so as to elimi'n'ate the lowerflange-like or brimipor't ion of thesheet ll entirely, or, only'ipart ofthebrini-portion of thesheet ll maybe'eu't away if desired.

The term heat-seamen. adhsiv'e 'as "used in. the claims refersv to anytpeer adhesive with;

which the crown orflbr'iin material may be impregnated v and. whichadhesive 'will be 7 activated to adhere the crown to the'ibr'i'mupon-the app pli'cation of heat, as is well kridwn in the art.

It will be ulflderstood thalt varieus modifications:

may be madeinith e method andresumingarnne illustratedand describedherein without depart ing from the spirit of Having thus described myinvention, what claim and desire to secure by "Letters Patent isv asfollows: 1 H e 1. A method of making hats-comprising the steps offorming an annular brirhfplacing the;

ing a female concave member of said hat-form" ing the into engagementwith said crown material, and applying heat and pressure to saidmaterial and brim by means of said die members and therebysimultaneously molding the material into a crown and adhesively securingthe brim thereto at the overlapping portion of the crown material.

2. A method of making hat frames comprising the steps of forming anannular brim of relatively stiff material, applying adhesive to thebrim, placing the brim on a male convex member of forming die, placing asheet of crown material having greater flexibility than the material ofthe brim on said male die member and in over lapping relation withrespect to the brim so as to provide overlapping portions of the crownmaterial to the brim, applying moisture to said crown material and saidbrim, placing a female concave member of said forming die intoengagement with said crown material while simultaneously stretching andtensioning the latter, and applying heat and pressure to said crownmate-- rial and brim by means of said die members thereby simultaneouslymolding the crown material into a crown and adhesively securing the brimthereto at the overlapping portion of the crown material.

3. A method of making hats or hat frames comprising the steps of formingan annular brim of relatively stiff material, placing the brim around amale convex member of a hat-forming die, placing a sheet of crownmaterial over said die member in overlapping relation to the brim so asto provide overlapping portions of the crown material to the brim, saidcrown material being relatively flexible as compared with the materialof the brim, placing a female concave member of said hat-forming dieinto engagement with said crown material and applying heat and pressureto said crown material and brim by means of said die members so as tosimultaneously mold the crown material into a crown and secure the brimthereto at the overlapping portion of the crown material.

4. A method of making hat frames having a crown of flexible materialwhich is too sheer to retain its shape when formed independently of areinforcing brim or other bracing element, said method comprising thesteps of forming an annular brim of relatively stiif material and havingan upstanding brace flange formed therewith, placing the brim on a maleconvex'member of a forming die, placing a sheet of said sheer flexiblecrown material on said male die member and in overlapping relation withrespect to said annular brim and its upstanding brace flange of the brimso as to provide overlapping portions of the crown material and thebrace flange, applying moisture to said crown material, said crownmaterial andsaid brim material containing a starchlike stiffeningsubstance, placing a female concave member of said forming die intoengagement with said crown material while simultaneously stretching andtensioning the latter, and applying heat and pressure to said crownmaterial and said annular brim by means of said die members therebysimultaneously molding the crown material into a crown and causing saidstarch-like stiffening substance to form an adhesive securing the crownmaterial to the brim and its upstanding brace flange at said overlappingportions thereof, whereby said upstanding brace flange supports saidcrown material along the flange engaging portion of the latter andmaintains its crown shape notwithstanding said sheer flexible nature ofthe crown material.

5. A hat frame comprising an annular brim of relatively stiff materialand having an upstanding brace flange extending around the innerpcriphery thereof, and a crown, said crown having a crown shape andbeing formed of a sheer material too flexible to maintain its crown shwithout external supporting or bracing struct 1 therefore, said brim andcrown materials containing a starch-like stiffening substance, the lowerportion of said crown lying in superimposed relation with respect tosaid brim and said upstanding brace flange, said stiffening substanceserving to retain the shape of the crown and the brim and saidstiffening substance also being an adhesive securing said lower portionof the crown to said brim and said upstanding brace flange thereof,whereby the brace flange supports the crown material along the flangeengaging portion of the latter and maintains its crown shapenotwithstanding said sheer flexible nature of the crown material.

6. A method of making hat frames of mate-- rial impregnated with a.starch-like stiffening substance so as to utilize said substance as anadhesive and thereby render sewing operations unnecessary, said methodcomprising the steps of forming an annular brim of a first sheet of saidimpregnated material, moistening a second sheet of said impregnatedmaterial, placing said second sheet in superimposed relation to saidbrim and in contact therewith, applying heat and molding pressure tosaid second sheet and said brim so as to simultaneously form said sec-0nd sheet into a crown and cause said starchlike stiffening substance toadhesively secure said crown to said brim.

7. A method of making hat frames comprising the steps of forming a brim,placing a sheet of material containing a heat-scalable adhesive incontact with said brim, and applying heat and molding pressure to saidsheet and said brim so as to simultaneously form said sheet into a crownand to adhesively secure said crown to said brim.

8. A method of making hat frames of material impregnated with astarch-like stiffening substance so as to utilize said substance as anadhesive and thereby render sewing operations unnecessary, said methodcomprising the steps of forming an annular brim of a first sheet of saidimpregnated material, moistening a second sheet of said impregnatedmaterial, placing said second sheet in superimposed relation to saidbrim and in contact therewith, simultaneously dieforming said secondsheet into a crown while activating said starch-like stiffeningsubstance by means of heat to adhesively secure said crown to said brim.

JOSEPH TURSHIN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 286,244 Wheeler et a1 Oct. 9,1883 296,557 I-Iaegen Apr. 8, 1884 327,273 Kendall Sept. 29, 18851,207,407 I-Iutter Dec. 5, 1916 1,273,403 Pearl et al July 23, 19182,455,619 Shrager et al Dec. 7, 1948

